Stage 10. Cassagna to Le Pont de Burgen ~21km

The GPS went a little crazy today, so estimating 21km, we went a way off piste to find the gite and we’re then driven another 2.5km up the mountain to stay in “Paradise”, how lucky are we to spend time in one of those 500 year old stone houses built into the side of the mountain with all the mod cons, except Wi-Fi and washing machine, but a spectacular  vegetable garden and orchard!  The proprietor, Alain is full of interesting stories, having run a gite and walking tours for 39 years.

Oh yes the walk! A relatively easy climb out of Cassagna, strolling along an ancient path with stone walls and terraces. Chestnut groves, fig trees and even kiwis as we crossed the divide into the Medetereanen region.

Dinner was a salad with heirloom tomatoes, basil on top of a layer of aubergines. Followed by pork cooked in white wine with bean s

Stage 9: Florac to Gare de Cassagnas

Today is supposed to be shorter and easy. Quelques averses.. on s’arrete A un petit chalet tenu par un couple fabuleux: il vient de Vendome, elle tricote et s’avere Être une “copine” online de Petra, via  Instagram. Ils ont plein de projets et vivent la vie dont ils rêvaient!!

Nous arrivons Gare de Cassagnas qui est le seul gîte a des kilomètres à la ronde. Donc on retrouve plein de randonneurs rencontrés à des étapes différentes. On organise un tournoi de pétanque, gagné haut la main par vôtre fidèle serviteur. Mais oui, mais oui: vous êtes autant surpris que moi! Car qui aurait pu prédire que j’excelle Dans les Sports de l’extreme !! 😉

Stage 8: Le Pont de Monvert - Florac

Stage 8: de loin la plus longue et la plus difficile étape du trajet, mais la plus belle avec des paysages magnifiques!!

La montée à partir du Pont de Monvert à été superbe avec toutes ces grilles à ouvrir d’un champ à l’autre. Puis les sous-bois et une montée de 5 km non-stop avec des pentes de 7.1 %. A killer!!

Mais le jeu en valait la chandelle car la vue au sommet était superbe. Marche sur la crête pendant 5 km. On a rencontré ces 3 sportives montées sur ressort qui marchaient en sandales... puis descente sur les Gorges du Tarn, cueillette de mûres en chemin pour s’arreter Un peu entre 2 cailloux!!

Nous arrivons à Florac, exténués, contents de notre performance. Mais c’est Lundi et j’avais oublié que tous les magasins sont fermés et la ville est comme morte! Nous changerons d’hotel car le Centre d!Accueil des Cévennes est sordide.

Nous passons la soirée avec Pascal, un randonneur solitaire, rencontré quelques jours auparavant qui campe quand nous dormons au chaud dans les gîtes d’hôte. Au menu: saucisse locale avec de l’aliguot: un vrai bonheur après cette longue et chaude journée!!!

Stage 9. Florac to Cassagnas 19.5km

A wonderfully easy stroll today, mostly in a valley following the Mimente river, a nice contrast to yesterday. The day began with a luxurious breakfast at the Grand hotel du parc, we even cooked our own eggs. Then it was a stroll through Florac, stocking up on supplies, namely pate, sausage, ham and bread for lunch. 

We imagined seeing faces in the rock formations as we climbed out of the valley.

And maybe even a poodle.

Stage 8. Le Pont-de-montvert to Florac 31.25km

So far the longest hiking day, almost 10 hours through mountains, the views kept us going. The cafe Redine made us sandwiches after some negotiations the evening before, since once again there were no cafes or shops en route today.

Leaving montvert meant a steep climb of course! We saw 7 hikers behind us who all eventually passed us. Three French ladies even took a nap at the top and we came into town soon after them.

The views today were spectacular. I wish I could say that made up for the grueling day of hiking. Lots of up and up and then more up. There was a lovely stretch in the forest where the trail was lined with white birch trees. Then it was down and down and a steep down to town. Lovely evening in town. Stayed in a hotel tonight. We met a fellow hiker and joined him for dinner. He found a great local restaurant. The food was so delicious.  

Stage 7: Le Bleymar - Le Pont de Montvert

Apres une nuit de repos, nous sommes prêts à repartir sans trop de courbatures. Mauvais temps avec beaucoup de brouillard qui nous empêche de monter le Mont Lozère. On fait donc un mix entre la route et les chemins lunaires our arriver sur le Pont de Montvert, village avec un pont !!!), pas de lavomatic, donc on meurt sous nos odeurs de pieds mouillés, et des rues jonchées de crottes de chiens!!

Dommage cette petite ville est adorable.

Et on finit par retrouver les memes randonneurs😀.

Au fil de nos ballades à travers champs, nous croisons plein de vaches que Tom harangue à coup de “Bonjour Filet-Mignon”!! Ou alors “Parlez-vous Mooohhh”?  

Il y en bien un qui va être vexé et qui va le poursuivre 😂😱😂!!!

Nous attendons le repas au café du coin entre un the pour nous réchauffer et un petit verre de calva pour nous donner du courage pour l’étape de 30 km demain!! 

Stage 6: La Bastide -Le Bleymar

Sad day as our Birdy Spice girl had to go back home in UK. So we carry the flag of hikers and keep going, through the windmills as if we were on another planet. Then we stopped in a small tiny village Chasserades where we met nice people.

Puis on est passé sous un viaduc et après la forêt et une montée sans fin de 4 heures!!!

Arrivée au Gîte du Poulitou. Plus assez d’énergie pour aller manger au restaurant du coin. On fait donc un tour à la Charcuterie pour acheter des champignons à la grecque, du chou farci (!) et du pâté en route. Que de bons souvenirs!!!

Stage 7. LeBleymard to Le Pont-de-Montvert 22.94Km

Well it was a foggy misty day, we did a long slow climb along the windy D20 to the summit where we enjoyed a grand cafe au lait.

I suppose you could say that the predicted torrential rain didn’t come but just remained a drizzle.

That’s Laurence and Tom in the distance.

In the market this morning we bought some delicious fresh figs that provided much needed sustenance en route.

That would have been a view of mont lozere if not for the fog.

We passed a group of sprightly French hikers as they disappeared into the fog.

There were some amazing stones in region of terminal moraine, Chaos Boulder region.

Stage 6. La Bastide to Le Bleymard 31km

Frankly a killer day today, after a sad goodbye to birds and butterfly spice who caught the train back to the uk. We walked for 9 hours not including a couple of breaks.

The first part of the day was glorious, a long slow climb and we were face to face with windmills.

Then the inevitable downward path and we were rewarded with two medieval villages with the typical symmetrical stone houses, adorned with wooden shutters in an array of colours. The afternoon was tough, rain, wind fog, difficult terrain, but we made it.

Stage 5. Cheylard-l’Evêque to La Bastide-Puylaurant 20.37km

Last night the au refuge du moure in the little hamlet was magnifique. The food just keeps getting better, especially the cheese course every evening. There were 23 walkers staying last night, all French was except for 4 of us. 

 There is a big long distance walking culture in France, with the extensive Grande Randonnee network and gites that provide affordable comfortable clean accommodation with delicious dinner and breakfast included. Today we also ordered a packed lunch since this is the first day with no shop or cafe en route. 

Our route on the app that has proved useful at time, like today when we omitted an 8km loop, but walking along the main road was tough on our feet and legs.

There are so many beautiful stone houses in each little hamlet and village we walk through, but this one needs a little attention.

Some views from today.

Three over achievers in our group, set off  to visit the Notre-Dame-des-Neiges, an additional 7km or so.

Stage 4. Brugeyrolles to Le Cherylard - l’Eveque 14.7Km

A beautiful short walk today, the terrain changed and we walked through woods and meadows. The big highlight for Deb was spotting a wild European cat. Apparently these are rare.

We haven’t spent enough time taking about the food, but it has been delicious! With an incredible cheese course everything. More details to follow. 

Stage 4: From Bougeyrolle to Cheynard-l’Eveque- 14.8 km

Great pleasant walk with a wonderful weather!!
We saw a wild cat today, a lot of butterflies and amazing houses.

We arrived at the village Cheylard-L’Évêque after a smooth hike!!

Life in the Gîte d’hôte is generally an adventure by itself. We are 23 residents tonight and we had to leave our shoes in a “buffer” room. Picture 23 pairs of hiking shoes and more vividly envision the odor of these 23 pairs of shoes after 4 days of hiking...

Then we all got busy with activities, from visiting the main and single Street of the village, to hiking a little bit, to journaling or knitting. I personally did some laundry, and as bright as I can be, I have washed my clean laundry and kept the dirty smelly one in my bag pack!! 😱😱😱 Yeah ! Yeah! I
know: I can be very inspired sometimes!! My mom can be so proud of me !

The dinner has been exceptional: 1h45 min of eating salad, lasagna, cheese and tart amandine. Step of 31 km tomorrow: we have a plan to loose these calories!!!

It is 21h50 and as we are Happy campers, we all sleep in the same room and all provide a pleasant concert of snoring every night!!